The Moxie Series: Fiona Ji

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The Moxie Series is a new interview series by MDS that shines a spotlight on innovative female entrepreneurs, creators, and trailblazers making waves in China. We asked them for behind the scenes insight onto their inspirations, work experiences, and hopes for the future.

Moxie系列是MDS新推出的访谈系列,聚焦于中国的创新女性企业家、创意者和在中国掀起浪潮的开拓者。MDS通过访问这些工作幕后,深挖她们的灵感、工作经验以及对于未来的希望。

Fiona Ji 季若彦 is a jewelry designer based in Shanghai with her own jewelry store, SUGARMAN糖人首饰. Her jewelry design focuses on the usage of traditional jade and natural stones.

季若彦(Fiona Ji)是一位常驻上海的珠宝设计师,并拥有她自己的珠宝店糖人首饰(SUGARMAN)。她的珠宝设计着重于运用传统的玉石和天然的宝石。


As you’ve come from a family of Chinese antique dealers, what importance do antiques play in your life?

It is hard to describe what role antiques play or how important they were while I was growing up. During my childhood, because of my father’s job, our house was filled with antique arts such as Buddha statues, ancient Chinese paintings, and jade carvings. …… Therefore, I see them as natural existence. At that time, I did not understood their value, but I did know that I must visit museums and art galleries when travelling to new cities and thought that everyone should have antique arts at home.  For me, artwork is more of a lifestyle than collectibles with high monetary value.

作为来自家庭卖古董的艺术家,古董艺术品在你成长过程中有什么样的重要性?

很难描述,古董在我的成长过程中扮演着什么样的角色或者说有多重要,因为父亲工作的缘故,从小家里就到处摆满了古董艺术品,比如佛像,中国古画,玉雕摆件……所以,他们对我来说就是理所当然的存在,那时候我还不懂他们的价值,只是觉得旅行去陌生的城市,博物馆和美术馆是一定要去的,每个人的家里都一定要有古董艺术品。我想他们构建了我的审美观和生活态度。对我来说,艺术品不止是价值连城的收藏品,更是一种生活方式。

How much inspiration do you take from your antiques background in designing your jewelry?

Chinese antiques play a very important role in my design. My intention of founding SUGARMAN is to reshape antique artworks through combination of modern design and traditional crafts, attracting younger generations to wear them. I hope Chinese antique’s essence can be carried through creativity and design. Also, having grown up with Chinese antique arts, I find it is easier for me to see elements and values in Chinese arts.

你的中国古董背景如何影响你的首饰设计?

中国古董在我的设计中起着非常重要的作用,因为我创立SUGARMAN糖人首饰的初衷就是想通过现代设计和传统工艺,复刻重塑古董艺术品,让年轻人也愿意戴上它们,用创意和设计将它们的精髓传承下去。也是因为从小的接触,对比其他人,我更能找到中国艺术品中的元素和价值。

Who are your creative role models?

There is a very old-fashioned soul residing in my body. I love the painter Edward Hopper, and have his painting in my bedroom, though just a replica. His paintings always have a power of silence: without bright colors and complicated lines, each frame of his work is like a story about loneliness, full of drama. In addition, Axel Vervoordt, an interior designer, collector and antique dealer, buys artworks and real estate around world and transforms them into unique styles. He is well known for his usage of “Wabi Sabi”, an aesthetic style coming from the appearance of old objects and beauty of time. If I need to summarize the reasons of why I like them, it is their abandonment of contemporary and popular styles and adherence to creating their own styles. It feels like a new world when one enters the world of arts they created. I believe you should stick with one style once fall in love with it.  In this way can the world fill with more things you like.

哪些艺术家最启发你的灵感?

在我身体里面住着一个非常old-fashioned的灵魂。我很喜欢画家Edward Hopper,现在家里卧室就挂着他的一幅画,当然是复刻版。他的画总是有一种安静力量,并没有明亮的色彩和复杂的线条,但是每一帧画面都像一个关于孤独的故事,充满戏剧化。另外,艺术家Axel Vervoordt,他既是室内设计师也是收藏家和古董商。他全世界购买自己喜欢的艺术品和房产,改造成独特的风格,其中最受瞩目的就是他对“侘寂”美学风格运用(从老旧的物体外表下,显露出的一种充满岁月感的美)。如果要总结喜欢他们的原因,我想就是他们都抛弃了时代流行风格,只坚持自己喜欢的创作,并且一旦你进入他们营造的艺术品中,就像进入一个新世界。如果你喜欢一种风格,就应该坚持下去,这样这个世界才会有更多你喜欢的东西。

Do you handcraft your jewelry? What is the production process like from design to selling?

There are three steps in my jewelry design and production:

  1. My preliminary design (hand-painted or CAD)
  2. Send the jade to factory for carving.
  3. Send the carved jade to the metalworking factories for the final inlay.

Of course, each of these steps involves many iterations. I lead the decision-making process. I can’t hand make jewelry just on my own as it takes several years or even more than ten years of training to become a qualified jade carving craftsman. Fortunately, I have my own jade carving factory with craftsmen who have been in this industry for more than ten years or even decades. They can quickly understand my needs and make them into real products. Jade carving is different from many other crafts. 90% of it needs to be done by hand. In ancient times, jade carving was the most advanced type of work in all handicrafts and jade artworks can only be owned by powerful and noble families. It is not only because of the preciousness of jade itself, but also its unique handicraft value, which is also what my brand wants to convey.

你的首饰都是亲自手工完成的么?能不能形容一下首饰的设计产生过程?

我的首饰完成一般分为三个步骤:

  1. 我的初步设计(手绘或者电脑CAD)
  2. 交给玉石工厂完成玉石雕刻的部分
  3. 将雕刻的玉石交给金工工厂,进行最后的镶嵌。

当然这其中每一步都会有很多次的打样,改版。主导决定都是我。我并不能自己手工完成我的首饰。因为玉石雕刻是需要长达几年甚至十几年的培训才能成为一个合格的玉雕匠人。很幸运的是,我拥有自己的玉雕工厂,其中但匠人们都已经从事这行十几年甚至几十年,他们能够快速领悟我的需求,并将之成为现实。玉雕和其他很多工艺不一样,90%都是需要手工完成的,在古代,玉雕是在所有的手工艺里是最为高级的工种,玉雕艺术品,只有王侯将相才能够拥有,不仅因为玉石的珍贵,还有它独有的手工艺价值,这也是我的品牌想像大家传达的。

With fast fashion’s rapidly changing trends and cheap materials, why is it important to design with traditional styles and materials, such as jade and gemstones?

To be honest, I do often buy more affordable jewelry, which is indeed very good-looking and at the same time meets women’s want for new styles in their jewelry box. These fast fashion jewelries are pragmatic choices for many younger women. However, I believe girls will grow up and start to think about the meanings of things they purchase besides pure monetary value. My primary principle of shopping is “beauty”; I have to find it particularly pretty at first glance. Secondly, I want it to be able to showcase my personality. Thirdly, it has to carry values in design, materiality and craftsmanship. The latter two may not be achieved by low-price and fast-moving jewelries. Though my jewelry is not for everyone, nor will it cater to the current fashion, I will always insist on my own style.

你对快消饰品有什么看法?这个看法如何影响你购买饰品的原则?

坦白说我自己也会常常购买很多便宜的首饰,确实很多很好看,还能满足女生对饰品数量的要求,很多戴几次就不要了,常保新鲜感。尤其对年轻女生来说,这些快时尚首饰是非常实用的选择。但我想小女生总会长大,会开始思考自己买进的每一件东西的价值除了是用货币来衡量以外其他的意义。对我来说购物第一原则就是“美”,首先我要觉得它特别好看。第二就是我希望通过它来展示我的个性。第三就是它本身所承载了一些价值,包括设计和材质工艺。后面这两点可能是廉价快消首饰无法达到的。我的首饰可能无法被所有人喜欢,也不会去迎合当下的流行,但是会一直坚持自己。

Has your design style evolved over the past two years since you’ve started your brand?

My design has indeed changed in the past few years. The most obvious is more abstract and symbolic designs in my work to convey my ideas. The works thus look simpler. Simple expressions actually involve a more complicated creative process. Take the “Infinite” series as an example. The symbol is twisted and hollow. There is no wax carving or modeling during the production, thus it requires craftsmen to directly sculpt on raw materials. Therefore, it is necessary for craftsmen to have a good sense of space, and to accurately see the proportion and size. I also tried seamless overlay of 18k gold on jade carving in my designs. It involves lots of discussion and trials and errors in crafting and manufacturing process. Because metal chain requires high-temperature soldering while the jade cracks at high temperature, it is quite tricky and difficult.

你的设计在这两年改变了吗?

我的设计在这几年中确实有些变化,最明显的就是我的设计多了更多抽象的部分,符号化的东西来传达我的理念。看起来更简单了。但其实简单的表达有更复杂的创作过程。拿“无限系列”举例。这个符号是个扭转镂空的。玉雕在操作工程中是没有雕蜡和建模这个环节的,基本就是玉雕匠人直接在原料上动手雕刻。所以需要师傅有很好的空间塑形感,对比例和大小拿捏准确。另外,我还尝试用18k金和玉雕进行无缝叠加的设计,这个从如何操作和到制作经历了很多讨论和尝试。因为金属的链接需要用高温旱接,而玉石遇高温易裂,其实还蛮有技巧和难度的。

Where do you hope to see yourself and your business in 10 years?

Truthfully, I don’t give myself too many presets and plans. I just want to have more people like this brand. It will be even better if I can open more brand stores in more cities.

想象一下你和你的品牌在十年后会有什么打算?

其实我没有给自己太大的预设和计划,就是希望拥有更多的人喜欢这个牌子,如果能在几个城市开几家品牌店就更好了。

What kind of impact do you hope to make within the jewelry industry?

I hope that through my design, everyone can see that jade can be very classical, traditional, and fashionable at the same time. I hope people see jewelry as a way to express themselves, but not something to blindly follow.

你想在首饰行业留下什么样的印象?

我希望通过我的设计让大家看到玉石除了可以很古典,传统,也可以很时尚。并且希望大家都认识到,首饰是可以让你表达自己的方式,不需要盲目跟风。

You can find Fiona’s store, 糖人Jewellery tour, online on Taobao, and on WeChat at sugarmanjewel.

您可以在淘宝(糖人Jewellery tour)或微信(sugarmanjewel)上找到Fiona的商店。

Interview conducted by Jennifer Cheung of MDS.

If you would like to nominate someone to be featured in the Moxie Series next, please reach out to marketing@metricdesign.net.

The Moxie Series is an interview series by MDS that shines a spotlight on innovative female entrepreneurs, creators, and trailblazers making waves in China. We asked them for behind the scenes insight onto their inspirations, work experiences, and hopes for the future

Metric Design Studio (MDS) is an award-winning, independently owned integrated digital agency in Shanghai. We specialize in web design & development, graphic design, e-commerce management, and WeChat solutions.

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